IADS Exclusive: From exclusive to inclusive – Lessons from Abercrombie & Fitch’s DEI journey

How exclusion became Abercrombie & Fitch's greatest liability — and inclusion its path to redemption

Abercrombie & Fitch (A&F) was once the epitome of “cool” for American teens in the late 1990s and early 2000s – a brand built on exclusivity, aspirational imagery, and a very narrow definition of who fits in. Its stores, with thumping music and overpowering cologne, became social hubs for youth and symbolised status for those deemed attractive enough to “wear the moose”. Yet the same exclusivity that fuelled Abercrombie’s rise eventually led to its fall. Controversies over discrimination and a lack of diversity tarnished the brand’s image, leading to lawsuits, public backlash, and a significant loss of relevance.

This is why, in the 2025 IADS White Paper, DEI at a crossroads in retail, Abercrombie & Fitch is cited as a case where DEI was neglected, inconsistently sustained, and ultimately mishandled—resulting in significant reputational, cultural, and operational consequences. Positioned as a lesson from the field rather than an isolated failure, the brand’s trajectory illustrates how progress on inclusion is neither linear nor guaranteed.

This Exclusive examines Abercrombie & Fitch’s history through a DEI (Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion) lens – how an exclusionary culture caused harm, who was most impacted, and what lessons retail and department store leaders can draw from A&F’s reckoning and ongoing turnaround.